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We had only been surfing half an hour and the waves were nothing spectacular.
I love to surf.
That's when I was suddenly aware of a large gray object closing in on my left side. I knew the shore was a very long quarter of a mile, but one thought kept repeating over and over in my head: "Get to the beach. Get to the beach."
Get to the beach. Get to the beach.
Byron and Holt got to me in a flash. I said out loud, to no one in particular, "I can't believe that this happened."
I can't believe that this happened.
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